Monday, November 2, 2026

First Big Swell

 

Laid Back Line, Ocean Beach

I could tell the surf was up near the start of my walk this morning as I looked seaward from the top of the Ortega Steps at 14th Avenue. I wondered if it was too big and unruly for anyone to be surfing, but by the time I started to pass the Sunset Reservoir I could just make out the telltale lines being drawn by surfers dropping in on huge wave faces.

I hadn't brought my compact camera with me, so after I reached the beach and saw quite a few surfers out I turned around and walked home, then biked back down with the full-frame camera. From what I gathered from a couple of surfers, this is the first big swell of the season, and the forecast is for much more to come later in the week. 







No, it's not a wipe-out; it's a body-surfer!


This guy had an incredible tube ride and even made it back out.

The tube ride in series.







Body-surfer again.











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