Desert Lilies to Death Valley

 

Desert lilies with verbena and creosote bush along Desert Center-Rice Road, just south of the Desert Lily Sanctuary.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I couldn't find any lilies in the sanctuary despite arriving with a lucky rainbow in the distance, and I wondered if the ground has become more gravelly over the nearly 70 years since Tasker and Beula Edmiston first saw them here, making the land less conducive to growing lilies.

As I left the sanctuary and accelerated to driving speed I suddenly spotted numerous desert lilies growing just a little distance into the desert near the road. The sun came out in my heart, and I hit the brakes to pull over, with little daylight left to burn. 

After a short visit with the lilies I drove to Joshua Tree where I spent the night near the south entrance, and where I was awakened a few times by a chatty mockingbird who must have been singing to the beautiful half-moon arcing across the sky. By morning the mockingbird's singing had died down, but the wind had come up, very much alive. The car thermometer read 47 degrees, but I was warm in my down jacket. I skipped making coffee and ate more of my pasta salad for breakfast before trying to do some photography in the area around my parking spot. (For three days I ate pasta salad, baby carrots and hummus, potato chips, and trail mix.)

I exited Joshua Tree at Twentynine Palms, then took Amboy Road north to Historic Route 66 which was open as far as Kelbaker Road, which I used to traverse Mojave National Preserve up to SR 127 which took me to Death Valley.

The entrance doesn't even have a recognizable driveway. You basically just pull off the road into an open, gravelly area.

Pulling in, I wasn't entirely sure I was in the right place...

...until I reached the sun-parched interpretive sign, which says the Edmistons discovered this place on Easter Sunday 1957, and the 2,000-acre site was proteced by the BLM on Easter Sunday 1968. Just for the record, I was there on Easter Sunday 2024....

Although I found no lilies in the sanctuary, I was graced with this ghost flower (Mohavea confertiflora), an old friend I hadn't seen since 1994.

Desert lily (with soaproot-like leaves) and pink desert sand verbena. The sand really was pinkish -- or at least it appeared so in the last light of day.

Hurrying back to the car after shooting the lilies (wanting to get to Joshua Tree before full dark), I had to stop and get the gear back out again when I spotted this crop of desert broomrape (Orobanche cooperi). I love how this non-photosynthetic plant pushed out of the ground like a mushroom.

This was the wind-tossed wildflower patch next to the pull-out where I spent the night.

I love the rocks in Joshua Tree. These are overlooking a sandy wash that was still quite damp. This also is near my overnight sleeping spot...

...as was this chuparosa in the company of several blooming ocotillos.

Same wash still, with some evening primrose in bloom...

...and this guy sleeping it off inside one of the blossoms (which you just make out in the previous photo).

Ocotillo close-up of the leaves and bark.

Ocotillo branches.

Canterbury Bells (Phacelia campanularia).

A closer view.

Creosote Bush (Larrea tridentata) and Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens).

As I drove and drove, I was worried I'd somehow missed the Cholla Gardens, but they finally turned up quite a bit farther into the park than I remembered. I also mis-remembered them being on a steeper slope. I also remembered, correctly for a change, that my wife and I pretty much had the place to ourselves when we came through many years ago (April 10, 2007). This time the parking lot was packed, and people were roaming all over the place.

The jumping chollas, or teddy-bear chollas (Cylindropuntia bigelovii), formed an island surrounded for miles by creosote bush scrub. Even stranger is the possibility that the whole garden consists of only one individual that has reproduced itself vegetatively.

While I was gingerly walking around and setting up my camera I heard a young boy shout out in frightened surprise, "I thought I could do it!" Apparently he'd  tried to pet a teddy bear and found out why they call it "jumping" cholla. Shortly after that came his anguished cry of, "Dad! No!" as I imagined his father trying to unhook the cactus. 

Pinkish granite in Joshua Tree.

I think this wild rhubarb, or Tanner's dock (Rumex hymenosepalus), was along Amboy Road. When I saw them I went from 65 to 0 much more quickly than I can accelerate the other way around.

I don't even recall where this is, but probably still along Amboy Road.

This was another stop along the way, just a random expanse of wildflowers in the middle of nowhere. Despite the lonely locale, I could see a cell tower in the distance, and I did in fact have excellent cell service (as I did in many other out-of-the-way locales, allowing me to text my wife with numerous selfies).

I kept thinking I should stop to take a picture of one of these cute desert tortoise signs, but it wasn't until I stopped to check out the old Kelso train depot that I finally did so.

The drive down the mountains into Death Valley was interesting, but a kind of depression hit me when I reached Ashford Mill, where my hopes of seeing lots of wildflowers, as I had in 2005, were dashed. [4/20/2024 UPDATE: I was too early for the wildflowers!]

As I continued driving north I didn't really see any signs of life on the alluvial plain on either side of the road. Also, I drove for quite a while before Lake Manly came into view, and I thought I'd missed my chance to see it. When I finally got there I took a few photos with my DSLR, then switched to the FZ80 for just about the rest of my very brief jaunt through the park.

I was briefly driving behind a pick-up with two kayaks loaded on top, but they were just passing through. I believe the lake became too shallow for kayakers a few weeks ago.

People were enjoying the lake near Badwater.

Not only is Badwater the lowest point in North America, it was the warmest point on my three-day drive, reaching 81 degrees. (The low would be 38 degrees in Carrizo Plain.)

This guy was enjoying the lake without the crowd.

A dust devil gives an idea of the wind out there.

You gotta love Death Valley's geologic features. I just wish there had been some colorful spring wildflowers to put in the foreground.

There were many of these golden evening primrose flowers (Camissonia brevipes) here and there, making them the sole exception to the rule of no wildflowers. These were seen on the way up to Dante's View.

Here's a desultory snapshot from Dante's View, with his inferno below. Unfortunately there were no decent wildflowers to put in the foreground, and the harsh late-afternoon light was putting the Panamint Range in shadow. I did not break out the DSLR.

After taking their picture with their phone, I chatted awhile with a friendly young couple from Ontario, Canada, who'd flown in from San Diego. They thought Death Valley was great, including the heat, since it was still quite icy back home. As for me, I kept drinking water to stave off an incipient dehydration headache. Some of us San Franciscans can't take the heat much past 65 degrees!

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