True Nature Stories: Big Sur

Big Sur Sunset

I spent the day in Big Sur from sunrise to sunset, reacquainting myself with this majestic stretch of coast. Even though you still can't drive all the way through due to ongoing major road repairs, you can still get far enough to enjoy some of California's beautiful, rugged coast -- and without the kind of dense fog we're socked in with farther north.

The road ends just south of McWay Falls and Esalen. I was disappointed that I couldn't get a look at any of the construction progress from where the closure blocks the route. One of the nice things about the closure is that traffic was much lighter than usual. I didn't really start seeing many other vehicles on the road until around 10:30 in the morning.

Even though it was a photo trip, I was unable to photograph one of the highlights of the day, which was seeing two different California condors. Both flew out of sight before I could find a place to pull off the road and get my camera out.

I had a possible condor sighting while I was just hanging out at a small overlook where I was scanning the kelp beds for resting sea otters. I was excited when I thought I saw an otter surrounded by kelp, only to notice on closer examination that there was a vulture feeding on it! The carcass was more like the size of a harbor seal, and I was impressed that the vulture must have nailed the landing (assuming vultures can't land on water). Unfortunately, even with 10X binoculars I couldn't be sure the condor wasn't actually a turkey vulture.

Red Ice Plant and Setting Moon

It was built in the same style as the more well-known Bixby Creek Bridge, but this is actually the Granite Canyon Bridge.

Toothy Sea Rocks

I liked the color and texture of the coastal plants on this stretch of the road.

This is someone's private little cove (the house is outside the right side of the frame). Although there are several public parks in Big Sur (all of which charge an entry fee), some of the most inviting spots on the coast are on private property.

The rising sun was just cresting the mountains to the east in this shot of the Bixby Creek Bridge. Only one other person showed up while I was there, and he just took a quick phone snap and asked if I knew how far down the road closure was (I did, because I'd marked it on my map before going). Later on in the day, this same small pull-out was jammed with cars.

This is another view from farther south that also includes the Bixby Bridge. That layer of foggy haze never did completely burn off.

Coastal view with a yellow patch of lizard tail flowers.

I liked that the sun was shining on just that one sea stack.

The Historic Point Sur Naval Facility (with just the top of the light showing on the far right side of the frame).

Big Sur River

This was one of my favorite overlooks because I had it all to myself. I would return later to look for condors and enjoy the wildlife (quite a few sea lions, a lone harbor seal, a great blue heron, and the afore-mentioned vulture) down below. The only wildlife I didn't enjoy was a colony of tiny fire ants that I didn't notice until one of my toes felt like it was burning. I was wearing flip-flops and thought at first that I was getting sunburnt. Then I spotted the ant hill....

Coast Highway in Big Sur

Classic Big Sur Landscape

Small Falls with Five-Finger Ferns, Partington Creek

Coastal Color

The road winds just behind this crowd of redwoods rising from Partington Cove.

Sunny View up Partington Creek Canyon

If you look closely, you can make out the shape of a lone sea lion barking from its rocky perch.

A Gaggle of Sea Lions

That little spot of brightness on the kelp is a great blue heron.

I was a little surprised as I watched a lot of gulls fly right past the carcass that the vulture was feeding on -- until I realized they could get more bite-sized treats flung about by a couple of sea lions taking apart their prey (short video clip below).

Fully flowering Yucca whipplei on a steep hillside.

Big Sur Hangout

I'd thought all the barking was coming from the sea lions resting on the rock in the photo above until I finally noticed these nicely camouflaged guys on the beach.

So many cars were heading south toward the road closure as the sun was going down that I took pleasure in this unexpected opportunity to photograph McWay Falls. I figured the main viewing area would be packed with photographers.

Big Sur Ridges, Late in the Day

I ended up being pleasantly surprised to pull out at the classic McWay Falls viewpoint and have it all to myself. As a crazed photographer, I'd assumed everyone would want to be here. Nope!

I wasn't sure where I wanted to be for sunset (I believe it's the wrong time of year to try for the arch at Pfeiffer Beach), but I lucked into a pretty good pull-out. The main viewing area was angled south toward the rugged ridges, but the "unofficial" viewing area made for a great sunset spot. Soon after I set up my tripod and 300mm lens I found myself with lots of company, including a group that launched a drone.