Return to Carrizo Plain

Purple Parry's Mallow & Friends
(click to view larger)

The wildflowers of Carrizo Plain National Monument (so designated in 2001) have been calling out to me ever since I drove through with my wife about three weeks ago on our way to San Diego. The bloom has certainly matured since then. Some early species have set seed and faded where they once flourished, while others such as larkspur, owl's clover, and a big purple salvia have begun to bloom. Hardy, spiky-stemmed fiddleneck remains the undisputed king of the plain, and even though much of the color has receded in the mountains, the display remains impressive, especially compared with drier springtimes I've seen in the past.

I pulled into the Soda Lake Overlook parking lot while it was still dark, having made the drive during the wee hours. I figured I could spend the time until dawn by photographing the Milky Way with wildflowers in the foreground, but it was densely foggy when I arrived, so I took a nap instead. Truth be told, I was grateful to the fog for giving me an excuse not to go poking around in the dark to find a suitable foreground for the night shot. It almost certainly would have been a futile exercise anyway since I had pictured using the beautiful patch of wildflowers I saw at the overlook on April 4. As I discovered when it was light out, that whole patch was gone.

I drove down from the overlook to Soda Lake, where I parked at the edge of the small lot so I'd easily be able to get out if it got crowded and jim-jammed the way it looked when we were there three weeks ago. I made the short walk to the edge of the lake, then out and back along the slippery, wet boardwalk, and when I eventually circled back to the car I was surprised to see that it was still the only one there. I hardly saw another soul until after 10 a.m., and the pace didn't really pick up to the early-April levels until after 11 a.m.

The area around Soda Lake made for some enjoyable exploration. The peace and quiet was marred by my own appearance at the edge of the lake when one of the two American avocets in the vicinity called out in alarm. It was so vociferous I wondered if it was nesting nearby, so I kept my visit short out of respect. Just across Soda Lake Road was an intriguing patch of pinkish flowers, so I strolled over for a closer look and found they were owl's clover. A small group of elk was resting in the far distance between me and the Caliente Range. I assume there are still pronghorn out there, but I didn't see any.

Although the wildflower bloom had noticeably filled out toward the north end of the monument since I last saw it, the south end still had lots to offer. I also checked out Elkhorn Grade Road, whose existence I only noticed for the first time three weeks ago. I'd never before seen wildflowers on those seemingly inhospitable south-facing mountainsides of the Temblor Range. 

From there I'd like to have driven toward the coast to check out Big Sur, but Caltrans still has CA-1 closed due to rockslides. Instead I drove back up Soda Lake Road and parked to eat lunch and rest under the shade of one of the very few trees out there, in a small planted eucalyptus grove at the KCL Campground. The brightly colored bullock's orioles that captured my attention on a previous visit were nowhere to be seen, and only a starling (which I considered a poor and potentially ominous substitute) called out from the trees.

By the time I passed Soda Lake on my way home that afternoon, the parking area was just as overflowing with vehicles as I'd remembered from three weeks ago. If Carrizo was that popular all year, the Park Service would have to pave the roads and build some sort of tourist complex. But it's probably only like that for a couple of months, and in a dry year not even that. Even my neighbor, who'd never heard of Carrizo Plain, knew the word that gets everyone out there: "superbloom." Here's hoping El Nino brings us another one next year.

This might be Delphinium gypsophilum, one of five larkspur species found at Carrizo.

I'm pretty sure this is Delphinium recurvatum, the most prevalent larkspur I saw.

I never thought I would see Soda Lake so full of water, or so foggy!

The elegant, lilac-colored flowers of recurved larkspur.

Grass Riot No. 1
(at Soda Lake parking area; note trail in upper left of frame)

Grass Riot No. 2
(with Soda Lake and Temblor Range)

Larkspur & Friends Lakeside on the Plain

View from Soda Lake toward Caliente Range, with wading American Avocets

Shoreline Curves in Gold

Fiddleneck, King of the Plain

Meadow Dressed in Layers

Owl's Clover Meadow Near Soda Lake

White-colored owl's clover mixing with the pink.

This is as far along Simmler Road as I dared to go in my Mazda 3, due to very deep ruts made when the soil was wet and soft.

View along Soda Lake Road toward Caliente Range

Impressionistic Landscape

Flowers in the Sun
(This was possibly the last relatively cool day, with a high of 75, before a heat wave would move in.)

The first time I ducked out of their way I didn't know what had narrowly missed me. It was at least two of these beetles (Paracotalpa ursina) buzzing through the air, clinched together in what I guess was a mating flight.

Purple thistle sage (Salvia carduacea) frolic in soil too unsuitable for the looming king of the plains.

Thistle Sage

Temblor Range from Soda Lake Road

Still lots of color up there
(view from Soda Lake Road).

These are the hills I saw three weeks ago from CA-166, and this view is from Elkhorn Grade Road, where I was surprised to have a big brown UPS truck pull in behind me until I saw that there's a Nestle/Purina clay-mining facility just off the dirt road. Check out what a trucker says about making deliveries here. (Do you see the SUV trailing dust near the upper left ridge?)

Click to see the large version of these two panoramas, at 1800 pixels wide. This one is from a vista point near the southern end of Elkhorn Road.

Veins of California Gold

Driving to Carrizo in the dark, I had no idea what I was missing.

This stunning and undisturbed meadow is on private property just across the highway from the popular wildflower meadows of Shell Creek Road.

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Table Mountain

Wildflowers at North Table Mountain Ecological Reserve
(click images to view larger)

I was introduced to the spring wildflowers of Table Mountain when I briefly lived in Sonora in the late '80s, but of course that's a different Table Mountain. In part because I'm not fond of sharing my trails with cows and lots of people, I never got around to visiting the North Table Mountain Ecological Reserve near Chico until yesterday. It was well worth the trip despite my reservations, though, and I look forward to visiting again in the coming years.

Not knowing what to expect, I packed for an overnight trip. Since I was setting my alarm for 2 a.m. in order to arrive by sunrise I slept in the living room to avoid waking up my wife, who had to go to work in the morning. I actually woke up 15 minutes before the alarm and got on the road before 3 a.m. I let Google Maps guide me through the darkness, and that worked really well until I was confronted by confusing street signs at intersections along Cherokee Road, the final approach to the Reserve. I'd gotten so used to the voice commands that I didn't even think to look at the map on the phone, and I found it hard to tell at a couple of intersections, especially in the dark, which way to go.

As I drove past a "lake" (the Thermalito Diversion Pool) I saw the beautiful, golden shape of a crescent moon rising over the water. I pulled over but couldn't find a good photo opportunity until I got back in the car and drove up and out of the woods. It was still well before sunrise (on what would turn out to be a chilly, overcast, and windy day) when I pulled over again to photograph the moon with an oak tree silhouette. Even in the scant predawn light I could tell I was surrounded by wildflowers.

There was one other car in the Reserve parking lot when I arrived, and two more had come by the time I'd changed into hiking shoes and got on the trail. When I returned around noon, the lot was packed to overflowing. And this was a Monday, with what I would guess is a fairly ordinary bloom (not a "superbloom").

Although I had a hiking map, it did me no good when faced with the actual place. I figured it would be easy to just follow the trail at such a heavily used location, but what appeared to be the main trail soon led me past signs indicating the Reserve boundary. It was perplexing because the wildflowers were better on the wrong side of the boundary.

I waited for the two guys hiking behind me to catch up, but they had never been there before either. Thankfully, one of them had smartly saved directions on his phone and said we should hike along the fence line, so off we went. The hiking instructions I'd read at home said most people hiked along the fence line, but the cognoscenti took a shortcut. I noticed the shortcut as soon as we walked past it at the other end. The way to find the beginning of the shortcut is to face the big sign at the trailhead that tells you to have a Lands Pass: the shortcut takes off straight along your line of sight behind it.

We didn't encounter our first trail sign until we were eight-tenths of a mile into the Reserve , but from then on, the rest of the route to Phantom Falls was easy to follow. 

A group of turkey vultures was perched in a tall snag next to the trail near Ravine Falls, but I didn't have a long lens with me and just enjoyed the view. I figured they'd been roosting there all night. As we approached, the vultures reluctantly flew off the tree one by one, and we soon encountered what the attraction was: a dead cow (alive with maggots) lay next to the trail.

There were lots of wildflowers along the first part of the hike, but few that drew me to photograph individual species. One exception was a low-lying scarlet-petaled monkey flower (Diplacus kelloggii). There were just a couple of them lying low to the ground the first time I saw them, but the next time they were on fairly tall plants, and out around Phantom Falls I found a large patch of them where I photographed a snoozing butterfly. I was glad I'd brought my flash for macro work since it was too windy for natural light.

As I roamed around I found plenty of wildflowers to photograph, and it was a joy to be out on such an interesting an unusual landscape. The main attraction for me was the Phantom Falls escarpment. As with anything else, the pictures don't do it justice. You can't stand right at the edge of a picture! I practically get vertigo just remembering it. I'd packed a sandwich and sat right next to the edge to eat it while yellow-rumped warblers flitted over the chasm next to me with ease, and a canyon wren trilled from the cliffs, its song a descending whistle that would have made an excellent accompaniment to something falling off a cliff.

I found another excellent wildflower patch after my early lunch, but the wind was only getting increasingly troublesome for flower photography, so I soon called it a day. 

I hiked back to the car and drove out of the Reserve by heading north on Cherokee Road (having come in from the south), thinking I'd head east when I got to CA-70. Almost as soon as I turned onto the highway, though, a flashing sign warned that the road was closed nine miles ahead. I drove up a ways anyway but felt like the wildflowers weren't really happening yet in that direction, so I turned around and headed toward Snow Mountain, which still has quite a bit of snow on it. I set Google Maps for a little button of a town called Elk Creek near Stony Gorge Reservoir. From Elk Creek I navigated south and west until I reached Bear Valley Road. 

I'd never been in that area before and was a little taken aback when Bear Valley Road ran out of pavement. I briefly thought about turning around in my low-clearance Mazda 3, but the scenery was so new and beautiful out in that valley, and I told myself I'd gone too far to turn back anyway. I stopped several times to make snapshots over barbed-wire fences of irresistible patches and fields of wildflowers. I encountered maybe two or three other motor vehicles on that long stretch, one of which was an ATV driven by a guy with at least two dogs onboard and a border collie running along behind it -- and all of them, dogs and human, seemed glad to be out on such a beautiful day. 

When Bear Valley Road reached the Wilbur Springs turn-off I knew I was getting close to paved roads again, and I soon came to CA-20 near the intersection of CA-16, which is what I took to head south through the picturesque Capay Valley until it reached I-505. After gassing up in Winters I was home in time to catch most of World News Tonight and have dinner with my wife (who happily slept though my wee-hour departure).

Rising Crescent Moon and Oak Tree

Rolling Terrain with Wildflower Foreground

Landscape with Cattle

Kellogg's Monkey Flower

Early in the morning, a little bit of sunshine broke through the gathering clouds, painting the landscape with soft light.

Oaks in Morning Light with Darkening Western Sky

Monkey Flower Bouquet

Phantom Falls Overlook No. 1

Phantom Falls Overlook No. 2

Landscape of Rock and Flowers

Streamside Meadow Wildflowers

Butter 'n Eggs

Wildflower Canvas

Owl's Clover, Lupine, and Goldfields

Textured Landscape

Veined White Butterfly at Rest

Phantom Falls Escarpment from the Western Side

Having lunch on the edge, I was able to text this photo to my wife, thanks to excellent cell service near Phantom Falls.

I was eating my sandwich and almost didn't think to grab my camera in time to get a shot of this guy who was standing on the western side where I'd just been.

Instead of waiting for a lull, I allowed the wind to do its thing in this 2.5-second exposure.

View Toward the Phantom Falls Trail

Mustard Along CA-160

Snow Mountain

Oak Grove Along Bear Valley Road

Purple Plains Along Bear Valley Road

Bear Valley Bovine Sitting Pretty

Huge Meadow of Cream Cups

Meadow, Woodland, and Hills Along Bear Valley Road

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Trail Cams

 

Warm-Coated Coyote

The main event on the trail cams for the last two weeks was a bobcat passing through, and it only did so once in all that time. Although gray fox have been common in other locations, I rarely capture them here, and they always seem to pass through at night.

I felt a slight sense of dread as I hiked up the hill toward the trail cams and saw that someone had passed through the vicinity. The Aerobie I found back in February and placed on a bay laurel branch had been taken. Did they also take my cams? Thankfully, no. I was glad to see that both of the cams were still in place. The likely duo did turn up on one of the video clips (they did not notice the cam), and I hope they enjoy the flying ring. I had a feeling someone would spot its day-glow orange dangling in a tree someday.

I like that the GardePro cam has decent resolution in daytime shots (all the pix in this post are frame captures from 15-second video recordings). The night shots are not so great. I also wish the GardePro rendered green foliage as well as the Foxelli, but my main wishlist item would be a faster trigger speed. Animals moving across the frame are often captured just before they exit the frame altogether. And this is despite the cam's side-sensors which are supposed to make the trigger faster. I also miss having the info strip, and I might turn that back on despite the fact that it overlays part of the image.

The cams show that the little creek was still running well as recently as April 9, but it has been petering out since then. When I arrived on 4/13 it was quite choked with algae, although water was still moving through it. I suspect it will have dried up in another couple of weeks, but only the band-tailed pigeons seem to use it as a drinking source. The other animals usually just step over it, although once in a while they will take a quick drink. A red-tailed hawk showed up to drink a couple of times one day.

Band-Tailed Pigeons

Black-Tailed Jackrabbit

Bobcat in the Night

Gray Fox

Red-Tailed Hawk Takes Off After Drinking in Stream

Coyote
(composite of two frame captures from video)

The Red-Tail's Return

Wild Turkey

Recent Trail Cam Video Clips

(with limping coyote mentioned in previous post at the end)

* * *

Clearing the Cobwebs

 

Bolinas Ridge view with sprinkle of fiddleneck and young cobwebby thistle.

It's been a while since I last had such a restless night that I woke up to a world of blah. I rolled out of bed feeling so unrefreshed that I skipped my morning exercises and cut straight to the oatmeal and coffee, then booted up the computer to browse the usual news outlets, only to realize I couldn't have cared less about any of it. On the bright side, it allowed me to roll out of the house and into a beautiful morning about an hour earlier than I otherwise would have.

The out-of-sorts funkiness followed me during the beginning of my ride up to Mt. Tam, but it was easy enough to brush it off. I recently downloaded The Iliad from the library and took Homer's cue of blaming the gods for any mischief I encountered. Beneath the little sprinkles of mischief, the day itself was superb: sunny and cool, with very little wind.

As I was about to turn off Arguello Boulevard into the Presidio I passed a memorial for Ethan Boyes, the competitive cyclist who was killed by an out-of-control motorist on April 4. My wife told me she read a Nextdoor post by someone who said they were an eye-witness, and that the vehicle crossed into the oncoming lane and ran head-on into Boyes. I stopped to photograph the memorial as I passed it again on my way home and let the horror of it sink in. Not only did the car cross the center line, it completely crossed the opposite lane and gouged tire tracks into the embankment on the far side of the bike path. [UPDATE 9/14/23 here.] [UPDATE 3/18/24 here: 81-year-old DUI driver pleads guilty to misdemeanors; sentencing scheduled for July 15.]

That grim and poignant reminder of what's at stake when we share the road with each other stayed with me as I continued my ride, but I also didn't ignore all the uplifting reminders of the world that I also encountered, like a great blue heron perched on a rooftop, or a large ship sailing through a sunlit tableau of calm bay waters, rolling green hills, and peaceful shoreline, with a little irony thrown in (it was an oil and chemical tanker with "Protect the Environment" emblazoned in green below the bridge, in slightly smaller type than the red "No Smoking" reminder). Up on Bolinas Ridge I spotted a coyote with a limp who was hunting as best he could, his motley fur coat halfway between winter and summer. 

This is prime time to see spring patches of purple sky lupine on the steep green hillsides, but I didn't see a single good patch of them on Thursday. Earlier in the week David Muir on ABC News aired a feature on wildflowers that included Mt. Tamalpais, but they recorded the segment before they had much to show. I'll hold out hope there's more to come since I've seen impressive blooms in the past as late as April 30. Meanwhile, patches of fragrant chert-loving lupines were just coming into bloom along West Ridgecrest Road, and a low-growing fiddleneck created a few small patches of golden yellow. Calpyso orchids are still going strong.

Urban Heron

The Overseas Boston oil/chemical tanker steams out of San Francisco Bay

An Injured Coyote on the Hunt

Coyote and Poison Oak

Chert-Loving Lupine

A young buck feeding his growing antlers.

It's a superbloom! :)

Smoke on Panoramic Highway

Crews were doing controlled burns of brush piles above Muir Woods.

Ethan Boyes Memorial

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